Lees mijn blogs op de site van www.deondernemer.nl
19-06-13 Willen is kunnen, over mvo in de textielsector
10-4-13 Een dagje bij de Week van de Ondernemer
11-3-13 De bril van Herman
15-1-13 Duurzaam dilemma
woensdag 19 juni 2013
zondag 6 januari 2013
Waarom ik geen kleding van bamboe verkoop...
Bamboekleding beter voor het milieu??
Vaak vragen klanten mij of ik ook kleding van bamboe verkoop. Omdat het zo zacht en anti-allergisch (wat overigens niet bewezen is) zou zijn. Het is inderdaad prachtig materiaal, maar ik ben nogal terughoudend bij de inkoop ervan.
De groei van bamboe kost weliswaar minder water en pesticiden dan de teelt van katoen, maar het proces om er een viscose van de maken waarmee kleding kan worden gemaakt, gaat gepaard met vele chemicaliën. Bamboe kan dan ook niet biologisch (GOTS) gecertificeerd worden.
En als een leverancier van bamboetextiel mij niet kan vertellen hoe precies de viscose gemaakt is (met de chemicaliën in een gesloten systeem) of waar het precies (meestal China!) vandaan komt, en hoe de arbeidsomstandigheden daar zijn, durf ik het nog niet aan...
Sommige merken gebruiken tencel als alternatief, maar ook dat vind ik dubieus, omdat dat vaak van eucalyptuspulp wordt gemaakt en eucalyptusbomen zuigen al het water uit hun omgeving weg zodat daar niets meer groeit...
Best lastige keuzes dus. Ik hou het voorlopig bij biokatoen (het gebruikte water is vooral regenwater) en hennep.
Meer lezen?
Q&A textile quality
Mening Patagonia over bamboe
How to Avoid Bamboozling Your Customers
Marketers looking to provide more environmentally friendly choices to consumers may have heard about bamboo, which has been recognized for its ability to grow quickly with little or no need for pesticides. But when it comes to textile products made from bamboo, that’s not the whole story.
The truth is, most “bamboo” textile products, if not all, really are rayon, which typically is made using environmentally toxic chemicals in a process that emits hazardous pollutants into the air. While different plants, including bamboo, can be used as a source material to create rayon, there’s no trace of the original plant in the finished rayon product.
If you make, advertise or sell bamboo-based textiles, the Federal Trade Commission, the nation’s consumer protection agency, wants you to know that unless a product is made directly with bamboo fiber — often called “mechanically processed bamboo” — it can’t be called bamboo.
Indeed, to advertise or label a product as “bamboo,” you need competent and reliable evidence, such as scientific tests and analyses, to show that it’s made of actual bamboo fiber. Relying on other people’s claims isn’t substantiation. The same standard applies to other claims, like a claim that rayon fibers retain natural antimicrobial properties from the bamboo plant.
If you sell clothing, linens, or other textile products, you’re responsible for making truthful disclosures about the fiber content. If your product isn’t made directly of bamboo fiber — but is a manufactured fiber for which bamboo was the plant source — it should be labeled and advertised using the proper generic name for the fiber, such as rayon, or “rayon made from bamboo.”
Any claims you make about your textile products have to be true and cannot be misleading. As the seller, you must have substantiation for each and every claim — express and implied — that you make.
GOTS:
Is it possible to use 'bamboo' in GOTS-certified textiles?
For almost all bamboo fibre used in industrial textile production not the natural bamboo is used but it is melted and regenerated in a viscose / rayon process and can therefore not be considered a natural or even organic fibre, even if the bamboo plant was originally certified organic on the field. As a result bamboo fibres can only be used for the tolerated remaining balance of conventional fibres (up to 5% for the label grade ‘organic’ and up to 10% respective 25% for the label grade ‘made with organic materials’) in GOTS certified textiles.
These rules apply to regenerated fibres derived from any raw material source (e.g. wood, cotton lints, soybean, milk).
Users of bamboo (and other regenerated) fibres should also be aware of the legal labelling requirements in their sales markets. In the United States the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) has clarified that if bamboo is produced via rayon process these fibers must be called rayon and not bamboo (see FTC article “How to avoid bamboozling your customers”). Equivalent labelling requirements apply elsewhere as well, such as in the European Union.
Vaak vragen klanten mij of ik ook kleding van bamboe verkoop. Omdat het zo zacht en anti-allergisch (wat overigens niet bewezen is) zou zijn. Het is inderdaad prachtig materiaal, maar ik ben nogal terughoudend bij de inkoop ervan.
De groei van bamboe kost weliswaar minder water en pesticiden dan de teelt van katoen, maar het proces om er een viscose van de maken waarmee kleding kan worden gemaakt, gaat gepaard met vele chemicaliën. Bamboe kan dan ook niet biologisch (GOTS) gecertificeerd worden.
En als een leverancier van bamboetextiel mij niet kan vertellen hoe precies de viscose gemaakt is (met de chemicaliën in een gesloten systeem) of waar het precies (meestal China!) vandaan komt, en hoe de arbeidsomstandigheden daar zijn, durf ik het nog niet aan...
Sommige merken gebruiken tencel als alternatief, maar ook dat vind ik dubieus, omdat dat vaak van eucalyptuspulp wordt gemaakt en eucalyptusbomen zuigen al het water uit hun omgeving weg zodat daar niets meer groeit...
Best lastige keuzes dus. Ik hou het voorlopig bij biokatoen (het gebruikte water is vooral regenwater) en hennep.
Meer lezen?
Q&A textile quality
Mening Patagonia over bamboe
How to Avoid Bamboozling Your Customers
Marketers looking to provide more environmentally friendly choices to consumers may have heard about bamboo, which has been recognized for its ability to grow quickly with little or no need for pesticides. But when it comes to textile products made from bamboo, that’s not the whole story.
The truth is, most “bamboo” textile products, if not all, really are rayon, which typically is made using environmentally toxic chemicals in a process that emits hazardous pollutants into the air. While different plants, including bamboo, can be used as a source material to create rayon, there’s no trace of the original plant in the finished rayon product.
If you make, advertise or sell bamboo-based textiles, the Federal Trade Commission, the nation’s consumer protection agency, wants you to know that unless a product is made directly with bamboo fiber — often called “mechanically processed bamboo” — it can’t be called bamboo.
Indeed, to advertise or label a product as “bamboo,” you need competent and reliable evidence, such as scientific tests and analyses, to show that it’s made of actual bamboo fiber. Relying on other people’s claims isn’t substantiation. The same standard applies to other claims, like a claim that rayon fibers retain natural antimicrobial properties from the bamboo plant.
If you sell clothing, linens, or other textile products, you’re responsible for making truthful disclosures about the fiber content. If your product isn’t made directly of bamboo fiber — but is a manufactured fiber for which bamboo was the plant source — it should be labeled and advertised using the proper generic name for the fiber, such as rayon, or “rayon made from bamboo.”
Any claims you make about your textile products have to be true and cannot be misleading. As the seller, you must have substantiation for each and every claim — express and implied — that you make.
GOTS:
Is it possible to use 'bamboo' in GOTS-certified textiles?
For almost all bamboo fibre used in industrial textile production not the natural bamboo is used but it is melted and regenerated in a viscose / rayon process and can therefore not be considered a natural or even organic fibre, even if the bamboo plant was originally certified organic on the field. As a result bamboo fibres can only be used for the tolerated remaining balance of conventional fibres (up to 5% for the label grade ‘organic’ and up to 10% respective 25% for the label grade ‘made with organic materials’) in GOTS certified textiles.
These rules apply to regenerated fibres derived from any raw material source (e.g. wood, cotton lints, soybean, milk).
Users of bamboo (and other regenerated) fibres should also be aware of the legal labelling requirements in their sales markets. In the United States the FTC (Federal Trade Commission) has clarified that if bamboo is produced via rayon process these fibers must be called rayon and not bamboo (see FTC article “How to avoid bamboozling your customers”). Equivalent labelling requirements apply elsewhere as well, such as in the European Union.
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